Motorcycle chain maintenance: how to clean, lube and adjust

Motorcycle chain maintenance comes down to four habits: lube it every few hundred miles, clean it when it is gritty, check the slack against your manual's spec, and replace the chain and both sprockets together when they wear. Done right, it takes about 15 minutes and costs little.

A well-kept chain lasts longer, runs quieter and wastes less power. A neglected one wears quickly, hurts sprockets and can fail, which on a motorcycle can lock the rear wheel or damage the engine case.

How often to clean and lube a motorcycle chain

Intervals depend on your riding and conditions, and your manual may give a specific figure. Common guidance:

• Lube: roughly every 300 to 500 miles, after riding in the rain, and after cleaning
• Inspect slack and wear: every few hundred miles, or before long trips
• Clean: every 500 to 1,000 miles, or sooner if it is dirty or caked with grime
• Adjust: whenever slack goes out of spec

Dirt, sand, wet roads and salt shorten these intervals.

Task	Typical interval	Notes
Lube	300 to 500 miles, after rain, after cleaning	Thin coat on a warm, clean chain
Check slack and alignment	Every few hundred miles, before long trips	Measure at several spots
Clean	500 to 1,000 miles or when gritty	O-ring-safe cleaner only
Adjust	Whenever slack leaves spec	Both sides equally
Replace chain and sprockets	When worn or out of adjustment range	Always as a set

Check your manual, since it overrides any general interval. Add chain care to your regular motorcycle maintenance schedule so it does not get forgotten.

Know your chain type

Most modern chains are O-ring, X-ring or Z-ring (sealed) types, which hold grease inside the links with rubber seals. Older or racing chains may be unsealed. This matters for cleaning: sealed chains need cleaners and lubes that are safe for the seals, and harsh solvents can damage them. Check the chain maker's recommendations. Chain maker RK says external lubrication keeps the rubber seals pliable so they hold in the internal grease and keep out dirt, so sealed does not mean "never lube."

What you need

• Rear stand, paddock stand or sidestand (a rear stand makes this much easier)
• Chain cleaner or kerosene alternative recommended for sealed chains
• Soft chain brush or old toothbrush
• Rags or paper towels
• Chain lube made for motorcycles
• Wrenches or sockets for the axle and adjusters
• Torque wrench and your manual's specs
• Gloves and eye protection

Cleaning the chain

1. Warm up slightly. A short ride warms the grease and loosens dirt. Then let it cool.
2. Support the rear wheel so it spins freely, and put the bike in neutral. Be careful with your hands near the sprocket and chain.
3. Spray or apply cleaner to the chain according to the product instructions. Avoid getting it on tires, brake discs and pads.
4. Scrub with a brush, rotating the wheel by hand. Clean both sides of the chain and the sprockets.
5. Wipe dry with a rag. Don't use high-pressure water, which can force water and grit past seals.
6. Let the chain dry fully before lubing.

Avoid gasoline, kerosene and aggressive solvents. They can damage seals and are a fire hazard.

Lubing the chain

1. Lube a warm, clean, dry chain. A short idle spin or ride warms it slightly.
2. Apply a thin, even coat to the inside run of the chain, aiming where the rollers meet the sprocket, as centrifugal force carries the lube outward. Rotate the wheel slowly as you go.
3. Let it sit for a few minutes, or as the label says, so carrier solvents evaporate and lube sets.
4. Wipe off the excess, particularly on the outside, so it doesn't fling onto the rear wheel and tire.

Keep lube off the tire and brake components. Overspray on a tire or rotor can make braking and grip dangerously poor. If you get any on those parts, clean them with a suitable brake cleaner before riding.

Checking chain slack

Slack is the up-and-down play in the chain at a point midway between the sprockets. The correct figure is in your manual, commonly somewhere around 20 to 40 mm (roughly 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches), but varies by bike.

How to check:

1. Put the bike on the sidestand or on a stand as the manual describes (some specify measuring with the bike upright or with rider weight).
2. Find the tightest spot, since chains wear unevenly. Rotate the wheel and measure at several spots.
3. Push the chain up and down midway on the lower run and measure the total movement.
4. Compare with the spec.

A chain that is too loose can slap, jump off sprockets and damage the engine case. A chain that is too tight strains the countershaft, output bearings and wheel bearings, and wears faster. If you are unsure, err slightly toward the loose end of the spec rather than tight.

Adjusting the chain

Procedures differ by bike, so use your manual. The general process is:

1. Loosen the axle nut slightly (and any pinch bolts or brake torque arm hardware where applicable).
2. Loosen the lock nuts on the adjusters.
3. Turn the adjusters in equal amounts on both sides to move the axle back (tighter) or forward (looser).
4. Use the alignment marks on the swingarm, or measure from the swingarm pivot or a reference point on each side, to keep the rear wheel straight. Marks alone can be inaccurate, so double-check.
5. Recheck slack, then tighten the adjuster lock nuts.
6. Torque the axle nut to the manual's specification and reinstall any cotter pin or retaining hardware.
7. Spin the wheel and recheck slack at several points.
8. Verify the rear brake works and the wheel spins freely.

Wheel misalignment causes chain and tire wear and odd handling.

Checking for wear

Look for these signs:

• Tight spots or kinks: stiff links that don't flex freely
• Rust or discoloration: a dry or corroded chain
• Stretch: pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at the rear. If you can pull it noticeably away from the sprocket teeth, or the adjusters are near the end of travel, it is worn. Many manuals give a maximum length over a number of links.
• Sprocket teeth: hooked, shark-fin shaped, pointed or visibly worn teeth mean the sprockets are done
• Missing or damaged O-rings: greasy flinging and dry links

Replace the chain and both sprockets together. A new chain on worn sprockets wears quickly, and new sprockets on an old chain don't last either. If you are deciding between factory and aftermarket sets, our guide to OEM vs aftermarket motorcycle parts covers the trade-offs.

Typical life and cost

Chain life depends on care, power and conditions, but many chains last from about 15,000 to 30,000 miles when maintained. Costs vary by bike, region and shop, and you can compare labor figures in typical motorcycle repair costs by job. A chain and sprocket set often runs from roughly $100 to $350 in parts for many bikes, and shop labor can add about an hour or more. Some bikes with large engines or special chains cost more.

Belt and shaft drive

If your bike has a belt or shaft drive, this advice doesn't apply. Belts need inspection for cracks, fraying and correct tension, and shafts need periodic final drive oil changes. Check your manual.

Common mistakes

• Using the wrong cleaner on sealed chains
• Lubing a dirty chain, which creates grinding paste
• Over-lubing and flinging oil on the wheel
• Adjusting only one side of the axle
• Not retorquing the axle nut
• Ignoring stiff links or hooked sprockets
• Running the chain too tight to "avoid slack"

When to see a mechanic

Chain failure can lock the rear wheel or wreck the case, so don't gamble on a questionable chain. A shop offering motorcycle maintenance can inspect, align and replace a chain and sprocket set, and you can find one through our motorcycle repair directory or browse motorcycle repair shops in Phoenix. If your bike has been down, see what to inspect after a crash, since chain alignment is part of it. Have a pro look at it if:

• The chain is stretched, kinked or has stiff or rusted links
• The sprockets are hooked or worn
• You can't get the chain within spec using the adjusters
• The rear wheel won't align straight
• You hear clicking, grinding or loud slapping
• The chain has thrown off or you see damage to the case or swingarm
• You are unsure about riveting a master link or using a chain breaker

Master links and chain riveting require the right tool and technique, which is why chain makers sell dedicated chain tools. A badly installed link can fail at speed, so it's worth paying a shop if you're not experienced.