What to check on a motorcycle after a crash before riding

After a crash or even a low-speed drop, what to check on a motorcycle comes down to the parts that keep you upright and stopping: frame, forks, wheels, brakes, throttle and controls, then fluid leaks and electrics. If any of those look bent, cracked, leaking or feel wrong, do not ride it; have it inspected by a pro first. A bike can look fine and still hide damage that only shows up on your next hard stop or corner.

First, look after yourself. If you were in the crash, get medical attention if there is any doubt, because adrenaline hides injuries. If it is safe, take photos of the bike and the scene before moving anything, which also helps with insurance.

Before you touch anything

• Turn off the ignition and the fuel valve if the bike has one.
• Look and smell for fuel, oil, coolant or brake fluid leaks.
• Keep ignition sources away if gasoline is leaking.
• Don't start the engine until you've checked for leaks and obvious damage.

If fuel is leaking in a stream, or you see smoke, leave the bike and call for help.

What to check on a motorcycle after a crash, step by step

This follows the same logic as a pre-ride "T-CLOCS" check (tires and wheels, controls, lights, oil and fluids, chassis, stands), just done much more slowly and with a suspicious eye.

1. Walk-around

Look at the whole bike from several angles. Note scrapes, bent parts, cracked plastic and anything that looks out of line. Compare left and right sides. Scrape marks show where it hit, and impact points tell you where to look for hidden damage. A bike that went down on one side often has hidden damage on the opposite side too, from the way it bounced or slid.

2. Frame and subframe

Check along the frame rails, around the steering head, engine mounts and swingarm pivot for cracks, kinks, rippled paint or bent tubes. Look at weld seams. A bent or cracked frame is rarely fixed by simply bending it back and needs professional assessment. A bike that tracks to one side, or has crooked handlebars relative to the front wheel, may have frame or fork damage.

3. Forks, triple clamps and handlebars

• Look for bent fork tubes, scratches or dents on the stanchions, and oil weeping from the seals.
• Check that the forks are straight and the triple clamps haven't twisted.
• Sight down the front of the bike to see that the front wheel lines up with the rear.
• Turn the bars lock to lock. Binding, notchy motion or catching are warning signs.
• Look at bars and risers for bends or cracks. Don't bend them back, since that weakens the metal.

4. Wheels and tires

• Spin each wheel and check for wobble, flat spots or rubbing.
• Look at rims for dents, cracks or bends. Cracked cast wheels need replacement.
• On spoked wheels, check for loose, bent or broken spokes.
• Check tires for cuts, bulges and sidewall damage, and check that the bead is seated.
• Inspect axles and axle nuts for bending and proper torque.

5. Brakes

• Squeeze the lever and press the pedal. They should feel firm, not spongy.
• Look for leaking calipers, bent levers, cracked brake lines and fluid on the rotors.
• Check rotors for warping or cracks, and calipers for damage and free movement.
• Make sure the pads are present and seated.

Brakes must be right before you ride. If anything is off, stop here.

6. Controls and cables

• Throttle: it should snap closed on its own when released.
• Clutch and brake levers: check for bends or cracks and smooth action.
• Shifter and brake pedal: check for bent shafts, loose linkages and correct position.
• Cables: look for kinks, fraying or binding.
• Kill switch, starter and other switches: test them.

A throttle that sticks open is dangerous.

7. Engine, fluids and leaks

• Check oil level, coolant level and brake fluid.
• Look for cracked cases, leaking gaskets or damaged clutch and alternator covers, which often take the hit in a slide.
• Look at the radiator, hoses and oil cooler for dents and leaks.
• Check the exhaust for dents, loose mounts or cracks.

If the bike was on its side, oil may have flowed where it shouldn't. Some bikes need specific recovery steps after laying down, so check the manual before starting the engine.

8. Fuel system

Check the tank for dents, cracks and leaks. Check the fuel lines, petcock and cap seal. Fuel leaks are a fire risk. Dented tanks near a seam or mount can crack later, so look again after a day.

9. Electrical

• Check the headlight, taillight, turn signals and brake light.
• Look for pinched or exposed wiring, loose connectors and cracked mirrors or instruments.
• Check battery mounting, and look for a leaking or swollen battery.

10. Suspension, swingarm and chain

• Inspect the shock for leaks and bent rods.
• Check the swingarm for cracks or bending, and the linkage for damage.
• Check chain alignment and sprockets. A bent swingarm or axle often shows up as a rear wheel that no longer sits square. Our guide to motorcycle chain maintenance explains how to check slack and alignment once the rest checks out.
• Rear wheel alignment should look square to the frame.

What the damage usually means

What you find	Usually means	What to do
Scuffed plastic, scratched levers, bent mirror	Cosmetic or minor control damage	Replace parts, recheck lever and shifter position
Bent handlebar or lever	Impact on the controls	Replace the part, then recheck steering and brake action
Weeping fork seal or scratched stanchion	Fork damage	Shop repair before riding
Cracked case, cover or radiator	Engine or cooling damage	Do not start it; get it assessed
Wheel wobble, bent rim, bent axle	Wheel or axle damage	Replace or repair at a shop
Bike pulls to one side, crooked bars	Possible frame or fork damage	Professional measurement
Spongy brake lever, any fluid leak	Brake system damage	Do not ride; tow it

Test ride carefully

If everything looks fine, start slowly in a safe area. Listen for noises. Test brakes at low speed first. Feel for pulling, wobble, vibration or odd steering response. Don't take the first ride on the highway.

Signs it's not safe to ride

• A cracked or bent frame
• Bent forks, wheels or axle
• Fluid leaks from brakes, forks or fuel system
• Brakes that feel spongy or inconsistent
• A throttle that doesn't return
• Wobble or shaking at any speed
• Handlebars that don't point straight when the wheel is straight

Gear check

Replace your helmet after any significant impact, even if it looks fine, since the foam liner compresses to absorb the hit and cannot do it twice. Inspect jackets, armor and gloves for damage too, and replace protective pieces that took a hard hit.

Insurance and records

Photograph damage, keep receipts and note where the bike was inspected. Insurers may require a shop estimate, and our overview of motorcycle insurance claims and repairs covers what to expect. If the bike is totaled, a professional inspection also documents the damage. Rules vary by insurer and location.

Costs

Costs vary widely by bike, region and shop. Minor cosmetic fixes like levers, mirrors and bar-end sliders can be modest, while forks, wheels and frame work can cost many hundreds to thousands of dollars. A professional inspection often costs around one to a few hours of shop labor. Get written estimates, and see typical motorcycle repair costs by job for context.

When to see a mechanic

Get a professional inspection after any crash with significant impact, speed or visible damage. A shop that does motorcycle inspections can measure frame alignment, check fork straightness and test the brakes with proper tools. To compare options near you, browse motorcycle repair shops in Los Angeles or other cities in our motorcycle repair directory.

Do not ride the bike home if:

• You see frame, fork, wheel or brake damage
• You are unsure about alignment, torque or hidden damage
• There are leaks of any fluid
• The bike was submerged or hit hard on the engine cases
• Airbags or crash sensors triggered, or warning lights are on

A tow is far cheaper than a second crash. If you need one, see motorcycle towing services.